A week on the Albanian Riviera: the road trip

Day 1–2: Dhërmi

Drive over the Llogara pass early in the morning, when the clouds still sit below you. Stay in the upper village and walk down to the beach.

Day 3–4: Himarë

Slower, cheaper and with the best tavernas on the coast. Climb to the old castle village for sunset.

Day 5–7: Ksamil and Butrint

Swim to the islands, then spend a morning at Butrint before the tour buses arrive.